Surprising Sauerkraut

THE dinner is a special one. In the center of the table is a large pineapple that has been hollowed out and filled with pineapple chunks and something white. Shredded coconut? No, sauerkraut! Surprised? Not if you live in Germany or Poland.

German cooks not only serve sauerkraut in the traditional way, as an accompaniment to meat dishes (especially sausage or pork), but use it in combination with other foods, such as mixing it with grapes for a “tangy side dish.” There are Polish recipes for sauerkraut in wine, with dried mushrooms or with pickles. There are also “kraut” soups and salads. Yes, sauerkraut is popular.

Popular in many places, yes, but is it nutritious? Consider just one incident in its long history. Did you know that sauerkraut was vital in overcoming the once-dreaded “sailor’s disease,” scurvy? Scurvy is a vitamin-C-deficiency disease “that habitually decimated the crews of ships on lengthy voyages” because they did not get fresh vegetables. In the late 1700’s British captain James Cook discovered that sauerkraut along with other vegetables and fruits both prevented and cured this disease. He began one of his voyages with a supply of 7,860 pounds of sauerkraut!

So, too, today, because of its vitamin and mineral content, uncooked, that is, “raw” sauerkraut is recommended by nutritionists. For instance, Dr. Linus Pauling notes: “Sauerkraut contains a good amount of vitamin C.”

In view of this, some might ask, “How is sauerkraut made? Could I make it at home?” Yes, and the basic formula is very simple. Fundamentally, if a person has access to fresh head cabbage he can make his own sauerkraut. Even a five-gallon crock will last a family of four for quite a while (depending on appetites, of course).

A German cook explains a basic recipe for “raw” sauerkraut in a five-gallon container: “You will need a container of glass, porcelain, wood or earthenware; but do not use a metal one. If you have a device for shredding vegetables, fine, but if not, cut each cabbage in half and then slice across the leaves, making about one-eighth-inch-wide cuts. In the bottom of your crock put a layer of shredded cabbage and then, using a pestle of some sort (something to press down the cabbage but not with sharp cutting edges on it), pack this down firmly, until you have about a four-inch layer. You can put into the crock a ruler or stick with every four inches marked off to know when you have the right amount for a layer.

“Now sprinkle a tablespoon of salt over the top of this layer. Proceed to pack down another four-inch layer and then sprinkle the top of this new layer with salt. Keep doing this until the container is nearly filled.

“Place four whole cabbage leaves on top of the last salted layer, then put a board on top (a piece of wood smaller than the opening at the top of the crock so that the board rests directly on the cabbage). Place a heavy stone on top of the board. For a five-gallon crock, a ten-pound or heavier rock would be good. When it is fermenting you may want to keep it in a warm place, but once it has turned to sauerkraut keep it in a cool place, perhaps your basement.

“And now for the hard part, patience! It takes about six weeks for the cabbage to transform and become sauerkraut. At the end of this time period, remove the top cabbage leaves and also skim off the residue at the top. Then remove the first one half inch or so (it will be darker than the rest of the sauerkraut) and below it you have enough good sauerkraut for many meals.”

There are many recipes for making “raw” sauerkraut that show its surprising versatility. In addition to adding salt to each layer, you can add caraway seeds, a combination of juniper berries, mustard seeds and onions, vine leaves or sliced apples. Even garlic can be used, but sparingly.

Surprisingly simple to make, surprisingly versatile in its uses, surprisingly healthful​—sauerkraut may be a food you will want to consider for your family.