All Aboard for the Inland Sea!

By “Awake!” correspondent in Japan

IT IS a fascinating wonderland of over 3,000 islands​—often described as a necklace of emeralds. Strewn over some 300 miles (480 kilometers) of sea, these islands form an oceanic National Park​—Japan’s “Inland Sea.”

In Japanese this stretch of island-studded waters is known as Seto-nai-kai, which means “sea within the channels.” The Inland Sea is situated between Honshu, Kyushu and Shikoku, three of Japan’s four main islands.

In this unique waterway, the size of the islands varies. Some are about sixty-three miles (101 kilometers) in circumference and are well populated. Others are small enough to be mere nameless rocks. Among the most picturesque of these “rocks” are ones on which a single pine tree grows. Supposedly, these islands came into existence as a result of a sudden land fall prompted by volcanic action many years ago.

The scenery of Japan’s Inland Sea is breathtaking. Variety in seasons contributes to this. If you were to sail past these islands during winter, the ripening of tangerines on shore would add a splash of orange to your view. Spring, with softer colors, delights the observer, as peach and cherry blossoms become prominent. In summertime, chrysanthemums change the panorama to a creamy white. And during autumn the waters reflect red, as maple leaves take on a change of costume.

Would you enjoy a look at some of these scenic islands? Then please come aboard and join us for a brief cruise by small craft.

We begin our excursion at the northeastern tip of the Inland Sea. First of all, we pass Shodo and Awaji Islands, among the largest in the entire Inland Sea complex. The Naruto Channel, between the islands of Shikoku and Awaji, is over three quarters of a mile (about 1 kilometer) wide. At this location, water from the Pacific sweeps into the Inland Sea with a deafening roar. Whirlpool-like eddies, measuring up to seventy-five feet (23 meters) across, are found here.

Easing our way southwestward, not far from Takamatsu on Shikoku we pass the island of Megishima. Some know it by the name of Onigashima, meaning “den of demons.” In times past, Megishima was a notorious haunt of pirates whose hideout was a cave at the top of a hill.

Next, south of Okayama prefecture, we come to Nagashima, an island unknown to many, but with an interesting history. Up until the 1930’s this small island served as the home of farmers. Only fifteen houses stood on Nagashima at that time. Then Dr. Kensuke Mitsuda began a building project on the island, and on March 25, 1931, a hospital for leprosy patients opened. So that persons from nearby islands would not see them, the first patients arrived by boat at three o’clock in the morning.

Now Nagashima has two hospitals, but only 20 percent of the patients are seriously ill. Married couples have their own rooms and the healthier patients find joy in work. The men do some fishing, learn carpentry and make items such as tables and bird cages. Sewing, knitting and weaving are among the activities of the women.

Our craft now sails by Innoshima. Eye catching are its white slopes. What makes them that way? Actually, the whiteness is due to millions of pyrethrums growing here. These are flowers that resemble large daisies. Besides beautifying the island, these flowers serve another useful purpose, for mosquitoes cannot stand them. From the pyrethrum comes one of the most effective insect repellents known to man. Also on Innoshima is a Buddhist idol known as Jujika Kannon. The idol appears in the form of a female. Surprisingly, she bears a cross. Some say the image represents mother love, but others look at it as a symbol of wealth and good fortune.

Visiting one of these islands is a pleasant experience. The inhabitants are equally at home in the field, tending a rice paddy, or on the sea. Their terraced rice paddies, which must be perfectly level in spite of the mountainous terrain, are a work of art. Adding color to the scene are fruits of the orange, peach, loquat and lemon trees. Observers in winter will see the dark-green leaves of the nonflowering Igusa plant, an aquatic reed that grows to a height of four feet (1.2 meters). The stem of this plant is woven into the grass tatami mats found in homes throughout Japan.

With few exceptions these small island villages are completely cut off from one another. Many inhabitants are fully informed regarding matters on their own island, but know next to nothing about neighboring islands. Of course, modern innovations are broadening the islanders’ world. Yet, there is considerable reluctance to make big changes, such as in changing one’s religious views. Family decisions and traditions exercise a powerful influence, and are followed regardless of personal preferences and convictions.

Sometimes people ask us what type of fish are found in these waters. In the Inland Sea fishermen haul up such tasty delights as gray mullet, sea bream, flatfish, mackerel, sardines, octopus, cuttlefish and other varieties. Sadly, however, pollution from Osaka, Okayama and Niihama is taking its toll. Recently the fish have been diminishing. It is believed that many of these sea creatures have sought cleaner waters at greater depths. Since fish make up a large part of the Japanese diet, this is a matter of serious concern.

It is sunset as we moor our launch at a beach on the Kyushu coastline. Sitting together listening to waves gently lapping at white sands, we watch the sun turn the sky and emerald sea into a blaze of copper. However, we have caught but a glimpse of the beauty offered by the Inland Sea. There is so much more to be enjoyed, even places accessible only by flat-bottomed fishing boats. As no two islands are exactly alike, there seems to be endless variety here. Really, getting to know the Inland Sea would require a trip of several months. But we hope you have enjoyed this brief tour.

[Map on page 25]

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Honshu

Kyushu

Shikoku

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The Inland Sea extends between Honshu, Kyushu and Shikoku, three of Japan’s four main islands