“Ghost Towns”—Monuments That Instruct
BY “AWAKE!” CORRESPONDENT IN CANADA
THERE they stood—wooden grave markers of a bygone age. It was still easy to read those epitaphs:
“In memory of William Hugill, Late of Fullerton, Canada West. Who died Aug. 31, 1863, aged 23 Years.”
“Sacred to the memory of Peter Gibson of Vankleek Hill, County of Prescott, Canada West. Who died July 24, 1863, aged 31 Years.”
There were more like them. Many of the deceased were in their 20’s and 30’s, a few in their 40’s. They had died young and, as their epitaphs often bore witness, they had come here from many parts of the earth.
Interestingly, these grave markers were in the shadow of a much larger monument, Barkerville, a town born in 1862 and that died in 1868—well, almost. In 1868 Barkerville burned to the ground. But it was “resurrected” when inhabitants started rebuilding it the very next day. Then it almost died again, this time due to people’s leaving. It became a “ghost town.”a
But in the late 1950’s the provincial government of British Columbia started to restore Barkerville. Now thousands of visitors are able to recapture some memories of this town that once boasted the largest population on the North American continent west of Chicago and north of San Francisco.
But how did Barkerville come into existence in the first place, and nearly overnight at that? Why did it flourish and then almost die? The answers lie in the ground on which it stood. It was built on gold. Yes, this was a gold-rush town, one of many in the 19th century.
But what can we learn from Barkerville? What epitaph can you write on the markers of such towns that have been born because of an unrelenting search for gold? Briefly relive the birth and life of Barkerville and see what you would inscribe on this monument of the past.
Barkerville Is Born
Barkerville is snuggled in a mountainous wilderness of British Columbia, Canada’s far western province. It is about 500 miles (800 km) from where the Fraser River empties into the sea near the Canada–United States border at Vancouver. A little farther west is Vancouver Island. On its southern tip is Victoria, one of the oldest communities in British Columbia.
Before Billy Barker (after whom Barkerville was named) left his sailing ship and got caught in the gold fever of the 1860’s, Victoria had about 400 inhabitants. Imagine their surprise one Sunday when a ship appeared in the harbor with 450 men on board! Why such an influx?
Well, word had leaked out that there was gold along the Fraser River. A small party of miners had set out from San Francisco to have a look. They found gold in sufficient quantity to encourage them, and sent word back to San Francisco. As a result, in April 1858, that ship containing the 450 men docked at Victoria. In the next three months, about 23,000 more came by sea and another 8,000 by land! But some 25,000 of those returned home. In the face of great hardships, only the strong and determined stayed.
During the next year, the remaining stouthearted ones pushed northward up the Fraser and eventually on to its tributaries into an area called Cariboo. Here gold was discovered by the ton! It was there in 1862 that Billy Barker and his party staked a very rich claim. Barkerville then was named and its growth was rapid. Soon miners, and those daring to become such, were making their way to the Cariboo from all over North America, indeed, from all over the world.
Barkerville was just one of the instant towns then born of necessity rather than planning. It was an array of log shanties, stores and saloons built on stilts to protect it from flash floods. At its peak, the town reached an estimated population of 10,000. However, while the lure of gold beckoned thousands, only a few would be rewarded. By far the majority caved in under the unimaginable hardships.
Dangerous Travel
The Fraser River was the most formidable obstacle the miners encountered in their trek to the goldfields. One report estimated that in 1858 about one quarter of the canoes attempting the trip were lost. One man who knew the dangers was Simon Fraser, after whom the river is named. He and a handful of voyagers had ventured through its treacherous gorges and rapids in 1808.
But why not take the overland route? Fraser wrote: “As for the road by land, we could scarcely make our way even with (only) our guns. I have been for a long period in the Rocky Mountains, but have never seen anything like this country. It is so wild that I cannot find words to describe our situation at times.”
Miners who made their way through Fraser Canyon and beyond often were completely discouraged by the treacherous trails they had to follow. Besides that, the perils included mud, snow, hordes of mosquitoes and vicious flies, extreme cold, monotonous food, high prices and, during the earlier days, Indian attacks.
Once on the mining claims, factors causing further discouragement were ever present. Long, hard hours of work were coupled with extreme weather conditions. Mining accidents were common. Exposure, alcoholism and malnutrition also took their toll.
Travel conditions improved when a wagon road was finally built to the goldfields. Up through Fraser Canyon, the road was clawed from mountain walls, and it hung over canyon cliffs. It was such a mammoth achievement that some called it the eighth wonder of the world. A 300-mile (480-km) section was completed in 1863, and soon the road was pushed through to Barkerville.
What Kind of People?
Gold rushes produce and attract all kinds of persons—the greedy, the lawless, the foolhardy, the gambler, the woman of questionable virtue, the adventurer, as well as the honest businessman and miner desirous of bettering their lot in life.
Billy Barker was one of the “legends” of the Cariboo. With his party, he staked out land that turned him into a rich man. However, he spent his money as fast as he made it, and died a pauper in a home for the aged.
“Cariboo” Cameron came from Ontario. He traveled by sea the 12,000 miles (19,000 km) around the tip of South America, with his wife and small child. Unfortunately, the baby got sick and died. His wife also fell ill and died. She had disliked the hardship of the goldfield and had asked that at her death she be buried back home in Ontario. So Cameron temporarily buried her in a tin coffin enclosed in a wooden box. Shortly after, his group struck gold, the second richest claim in the Cariboo. But he felt all the more grieved now that his wife and child were dead. Cameron vowed to carry out his wife’s wish. Thus, in sub-zero midwinter temperature, with several feet of snow on the ground, he set out for Victoria with his wife’s body.
After a rigorous trip through the wilderness, Cameron’s group reached Victoria over a month later, where he temporarily buried his wife once again. Cameron then returned to the goldfields and that autumn was back in Victoria a few hundred thousand dollars richer. That easily financed his sailing ship passage to the east coast. He proceeded to Cornwall, Ontario, where, for the third time, he buried his wife. Today, Barkerville has a grave marker for “Cariboo” Cameron, who died there a penniless man!
Not all who became rich in the Cariboo ended up “broke.” Some handled their fortune well. They made it and left the Cariboo, returning home or going elsewhere to enjoy the material fruits of their efforts. Others stayed on and helped to stabilize the region’s future development.
Barkerville and Lessons for Today
Barkerville is still a monument. To preserve its history, concerned people have acted to restore Barkerville from “ghost town” status.
What is in the minds of some as they walk Barkerville’s streets today? Pondering the past, they might with benefit envision epitaphs with lessons for today.
One of these might read: “Craving Material Riches Can Distort Your Sense of Values.” The craving for wealth can push a man to do things that destroy his own family. Will he be happy? Remember “Cariboo” Cameron, who struck it rich, but about whom it is said: ‘The gold did little to ease Cameron’s conscience. He felt the loss of his wife and daughter more deeply now that he had money but was unable to share it with them. He never fully recovered from his tragedy.’—1 Tim. 6:8-10.
And another epitaph: “You Have to Exert Yourself to Get Anything that Is Really Worthwhile.” What is most important to you? Is it gaining the approval of God? Should it not be? It holds promise of a prize far more precious than gold—eternal life under the rule of God’s kingdom.—Luke 13:24.
Indeed, when you think about it, there are lessons to be learned from monuments of the past if we are willing to search for them.
[Footnotes]
a “Ghost town”: “A once-flourishing town wholly or nearly deserted usu[ally] as a result of the exhaustion of some natural resource (as gold).”—Webster’s New Collegiate Dictionary.