Each brotherhood is dedicated to a different saint, the principal one being Saint Thomas. The appointed officials of the brotherhoods are identified by the turbans they wear. These chiefs have the privilege of carrying the silver icon belonging to the brotherhood. The icon is about a foot (30 centimeters) high, in the form of a sunburst, with a small cross on top. It represents a fusion of pagan sun worship and Catholicism.

Once you reach the plaza, your attention is quickly drawn to the white church of “Santo Tomás.” The plaza or marketplace spreads out before it, throbbing with people and activity.

Down the center of the church are wooden pallets ablaze with candles. White and red rose petals are profusely scattered among the candles, white representing the dead and red the living. The oldest male of the household kneels at the pallets, praying. A woman may pray if no male accompanies her. In some instances, a priest or wise man is hired as a go-between to supplicate the gods.

In the flickering candlelight you can see the intensity, the facial expression and gestures with which each person prays. We hear no Spanish, only the Quiché dialect. To what god or gods are they praying inside this Catholic church?

“Our Father in the heavens,” the patriarch of a small family may begin his prayer, “we ask your direction now in the name of Saint Thomas. Listen to me, Saint Thomas, now that it is your day when you are going to go forth in procession.

So in the church of Saint Thomas, Pascual Abaj, sun god, earth god, Jesus and others all are mentioned together in the Quiché prayers.

Listen to a Quiché priest praying for his client, a woman. “O Saint Thomas, I am here to ask you to protect Macario. His wife has brought this sacrifice.” (He holds up a handful of candles, gestures in the four directions and touches the candles to the woman’s head, and she kisses them.) “Now these candles are holy, since you have blessed them, Saint Thomas. Let nothing bad happen to Macario, the husband of this woman. He is on a business trip to Guatemala City. He is not a bad man, so do not let anyone rob him. Keep him from accidents. If any brujo [witch doctor] has put a spell or a curse upon him, would you nullify it, Pascual Abaj? Bring Macario back to his house safely.” (He then pours rum around the candles he has lit.) “This is for you, Saint Thomas. You will need it today. This is your day to walk in the procession around the town and it will give you strength.”

A guide, overheard excusing the Church’s permitting the use of rum, said: “The rum has alcohol to purify the space for his sacrifice on the pallet serving as an altar.” More accurate is an archaeologist’s comment: “Often an alcoholic drink. is poured over the petals. Even the Indians are not certain what this means, but in pre-Columbian pagan rites drinking was part of the ceremony.” The many intoxicated celebrators indicate that drinking is still part of their worship!

Saint Thomas’ Day

December 21 is Saint Thomas’ day. In Chichicastenango the day opened on Christendom’s side of the ledger. The pallets were removed from the aisle of the church and four priests were officiating at the Mass. In the rear of the church, images of the saints lined both sides. A group of chieftains entered with icons, one being Tzicolaj, the famed rider of the little wooden horse. But attention was focused on the three gaudily adorned images, Saints Thomas, Joseph and Sebastian.

Why, though, are the images surmounted by elaborate decoration in the form of huge half-moons, like halos, and adorned with many colored feathers, plastic fruit, and flashing mirrors? “To represent the Sun, the heart of the Sky,” one reference work says. It is clear that to the Quiché the Catholic saints before whom they bow and burn candles are really their old idols or gods of Mayan mythology with new names.

The Mass concluded as the priest asked Saint Thomas to bless the people, who then filed out singing “Glory, Glory, Hallelujah.” Catholicism’s rites came to an abrupt end and throughout the remainder of the day paganism reigned supreme.

The cofradía officials moved quickly to the very center of the nave, kneeling to face the church altar. However, the chieftain carrying Tzicolaj positioned himself before them, his back to the altar. Who is to say whether the obeisance was to the altar of the Catholic Mass or to Tzicolaj?

Next the images were hoisted and the exodus began. Out the front door, down the steps the procession moved. The chieftains took a position in front of Saint Thomas, carrying their icons and Tzicolaj. From the church they went through the narrow aisles of the crowded plaza. Bedlam broke loose as explosive rockets were launched continuously, and firecrackers added to the noise. Finally, the procession returned to the church and the three saints were positioned atop the steps facing the plaza. There they received homage throughout an afternoon of dancing, drinking and music.